This is a challenge to build, paint and weather the kit using just the materials in the kit (the glue, three pots of acrylic paint and the brush), and no other specialist modelling tools. Buy it on Amazon.
Part 1: Unboxing and build (in real time) of Airfix’s Tiger 1 1/72 scale model kit, Starter Set
The kit is spread of three sprues moulded in light brown plastic. The first is the main hull, the second the turret, and the third the simplified version of the wheels and track.
The instructions are clear and made easy to follow. Each step shows which parts are needed, and the sprue diagram shows these removed as the build progresses.
I built the more complex version of this kit when it was first realised in 2020. That kit not only had more parts (such as tow ropes, tow-hooks and extra track linkage that was stored on outside of the turret to give additional protection, but also had the option to build the running gear with individual wheels, with length an link track. This meant that more control – and detail – available to the modeller when detailing and painting.
I used a scalpel to remove the pieces from the sprue (because I couldn’t find my small craft knife), and instead of sanding sticks I used a nail file to remove the surplus plastic – which worked well!
The small tube of glue is hard to control – and not as clean as using Tamia Extra Thin – but with care to make sure only the minimal amount is used there weren’t too many accidents!
The pieces went together quickly and with a good fit. Plenty of moulded details on the top of the chassis and turret, but is somewhat lacking when compared with the non “Starter Kit” version.
Overall the build was quick a simple. Painting should be easy because it is just a single colour, with just black and a metallic shade for the tracks, wheel tyres and detail. Therefore no masking will be needed, but I’m not looking forward to using these pots of paint…!
Part 2: Priming and Painting of Airfix’s Tiger 1 1/72 scale model kit, Starter Set
Usually I would use filler to fill any gaps (fortunately there weren’t any that needed attention), sanding them down using a range of sanding sticks, then give the model a spray of primer. However, as none of these were in the kit I decided it best to just give the model a wipe over is IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove any greasy deposit from the moulding and build process. However, this could easily be substituted with some water with a little washing-up liquid in – so didn’t consider this to be breaking my self-imposed “from the box only” rule.
I would usually prime in a light colour – usually a non-descript light grey, but only three pots of the acrylic paint were in the pack, and the lightest of those is the light brown colour (Humbrol 93), so I was forced to use that.
The most common mistake (and Airfix make no mention of this in the instructions or on the box where the painting guide is) is that the paints require thinning. This can be done with water straight from the tap. I used a little bit of sprue as a stirrer, and slowly topped up the water level until it was thinned to a good watery consistency. I then painted a thin layer onto the model.
NOTE: Although I am using the paint the model will be coloured with, it is important to think of this later a primer layer – the colour is a coincidence!
It is quite a rough layer, in that brush strokes are visible. The plastic colour is similar to the colour of the paint, but if it wasn’t it would be clear that the layer is thin! Actually, despite the brush strokes the surface felt smooth to the touch one dried.
I then decided to use the black colour to do some pre-shading. Again, this was thinned used water, and thinned down a little more. Using the brush (not airbrush) I painted black on the areas that would be in shadow, or dirty due to exhaust and wear and tear.
Three more thin layers of paint were put on. This slowly built up over the black pre-shading. Eventually getting to the stage where the black was just visible, but not with defined edges. The black was also used to paint the detailed items moulded onto the Tiger 1. Once dry the light brown was again used to neaten.
Just to recap, the layers used:
- Layer 1: Primer (could be any colour lighter than final colour)
- Layer 2: Pre-shading (very thinned black)
- Layer 3: First coat of main colour
- Layer 4: Second coat of main colour
- Layer 5: Third coat of main colour
- Layer 6: First coat of black for details
- Layer 7: Second coat of black for details
- Layer 8: Highlighting metal parts of details
- Layer 9: Neatening using main colour
As you see this is why thinning the paint and using many thin layers is important. Even after all these layers non of the engraved detailing was lost.
Regarding the tracks, The instructions say to use the metallic paint (Humbrol 53) on the tracks, but this is far to light. Therefore the tracks were painted with two coats of black (Humbrol 33)
Part 3: Decaling, Details and Weathering of Airfix’s Tiger 1 1/72 scale model kit, Starter Set
Once the tracks had been painted black I also painted the rubber tyres on the road wheels. This was a lot easier on the original (non-Starter Set) release of the Tiger 1 kit that had separate wheels and “link and length” tracks. This made the build itself more complicated, but made for much easier painting; as well as having a lot more detail on the tracks themselves. This Starter Set format made building a lot easier, but as the sacrifice of detail and painting it.
However, after a few coats of black, and neatening up with the light brown the results were passable for basic painting.
The tracks were then dry-brushed with the metallic iron to keep it a dark metallic shade, with the lighter metal highlighting the areas that will wear the most. The dry-brushing technique was also utilised on the wheels, as well as areas of wear on the main hull.
This concluded the main build of the Tiger 1.
Decaling was a quick a simple affair, with only main numbering and crosses needed. These went down well, as settled over lumps and bumps using just water (no setting solutions!)
Once the decals had dried I used the light brown and black together to make a darker brown, which I watered down to make a wash. I painted this around areas that would wear, and also where there is detail – wiping away the surplus. This simple weathering process helped bring the model together, mute the colours, and generally give it a less model-like look.
Ultimately if you want to build a 1/72 Tiger 1 tank I would recommend the original release. Though it doesn’t have the paint, glue and brushes; does have much better wheels, tracks, extra links for armour, tow-ropes and other details.
However, I would like to think that it is possible to build a model of reasonable quality with no modelling tools using just what is in the box. The only issue is that Airfix have not made clear how to utilise paints, and that will have a massive detrimental effect not only on the model; but the modeller who may be disheartened from the result.